Reproductions of the 18th Century
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Here we have selected a variety of paintings which express the fashion of the 18th Century:
Georgian or Revolutionary War Fashion
The name "Rococo" is derived from the French word rocaille for rubble which was used for the assymetric shell ornaments which is so typical for the era. With the death of Louis XIV and the following Regency of Philipp II of Orléans began the last era of courtly costume. No king, no court - the nobility felt liberated from stiff costumes, from ceremony, and from the duty of hangig around court, bored to death, just in case one was summoned by the king. They left Versailles and moved to their city palaces in Paris.
Social life took place mainly in the salons of well-educated ladies where intellectuals and the upper crust gathered for literary, political, philosophical or scientific discussion. This is where the Age of Enlightenment was hatched. But gallantery and philandery also had their place in the salons, making use of extremely refined manners and gestures - and of clothing.A lady's clothing of the Louis Quinze (XV) era was marked by the hoop skirt which came into use around 1720, shaped like the baskets in which chickens were carried to marked and therefore called panier. In the corse of the following decades, it changed from funnel- via dome- and trapezium-shaped to square and finally to an oval dome shape. Over the panier went a skirt named jupe and over that the coat-like robe, similar to the baroque mantua. The gap in front was covered filled with a richly decorated stomacher. The sleeves were elbow length and bore wing-like cuffs, later (from c. 1750) they ended in flounces. At neckline and elbow, the lace trim of the shirt became visible. The French robe a.k.a. contouche had large so-called Watteau pleats which flowed elegantly down the back, which the English robe was a direct descendant of the mantua with sewn-down back pleats.
At first, ladies apparently wore wigs only on rare occasions and preferred to have their own hair powdered and coiffed, decorated with a small bonnet or flowers, jewelery and bows. The use make-up, perfume, beauty spots and rich trimmings on dresses also started out relatively tame but picked up further into the century.
As for fabrics, lightweight silks such as taffeta, satin and damask were chosen in light, pastel colours. Colours must not be too brilliant. Tastes were for large floral motifs at first, then favoured smaller motifs and finally, stripes sprinkled with sprigs. Solid colours were also popular throughout.
Men's fashion did not change much during the whole era. The justaucorps, waistcoats and breeches that had been introduced during the late baroque era were worn throughout, changing only slightly in shape. The coat skirts, for example, grew fuller until around 1740, then diminished and were cut away in front from around 1760. The waistcoat below became ever shorter until it only reached the hips. It was buttoned only in the stomach region (the coat left completely open) so that the shirt ruffles could be seen above. The cravat covered the neck.
The powdered wig was a must for the distinguishing gentleman. Instead of the long mane of the allonge, it now had only a few curls to frame the face. The bulk of the hair was bound at the nape of the neck and usually covered with a black taffeta bag. Later, pigtail wigs became an alternative. As a hat would have dishevelled the wig, the tricon was often only held decoratively in one hand or under the arm, but it was not completely dispensed with.