Early Victorian
or Civil War Fashion
Fashion change picks up speed in the 19th century, so we are forced to combine a number of diverse styles under the same heading. In English, this is pretty easy as they all go under tha name of Victorian, i.e. under the reign (1837-1901) of Queen Victoria of Britain.
Stylistically though not politically, the era begins around 1830 when there was a drastic change in fashion. After a revolution and the Napoleonic wars, a peaceful life with the family was what everybody wished for. At the same time, the beginning Industrial Revolution created a new upper class - not nobility this time, but rich citizens, known by the French term bourgeoisie.
Their ideals and status symbols, as it turned out, continued into the 20th century. They wanted to differentiate themselves from the old upper class, the nobility, by showing that they had earned their money. The men, therefore, turned to darker and duller clothing which did not vary much during the course of the century, emphasising how very serious, industrious and buinesslike they were. Breeches had vanished completely from a gentleman's wardrobe, to be replaced by tight, straight, more than ankle-length trousers. With it went a tailcoat, a carefully knotted necktie and a top hat.
Women on the other hand were allowed, nay required to display splendour to show that their husband could "afford her". The waist dropped to almost its natural level and was made to appear tiny not only by corsets, which saw a come-back, but also by exaggerated width both below and above. The shoulders were overemphasised by pulling the shoulder straps of the bodice as far outwards as they would go, resulting in a largely horizontal neckline, and optically extending them even further by adding huge, puffed sleeves. At the height of the "leg o'mutton" sleeve fashion, they had to be stiffened with whalebone. Hairstyles were also extreme: artfully braided, laid into corkscrew locks that hung in front of the ears, pinned up into buns that sat on top of the head like mushrooms. Outside, poke bonnets obstructed the sideways view.
Around 1840 begins the Romantic era, putting an end to the extremes of hair and sleeve fashion. The ladies' neckline continues as a wide V with largely bared shoulders, but high-necked dresses are more frequently seen than before. Skirts become fuller, more dome-shaped, and have to be supported by increasing layers of petticoats, sometimes stiffened by horse hair. Their weight was considerable and hampered movement. The torso was kept warm with large triangular scarves (fichus) or cashmere shawls.
During this time, men turned away from the tailcoat but for formal occasions, and towards the frock coat which was not so far away from the suit jackets of today, but longer. Trousers were worn a little shorter - normal length from a modern viewpoint - and wider in the leg. The 1850s saw a brief fashion for chequered trousers, and the rise of the suit jacket which already had the overall shape we know today.
As ladies' skirts continued to grow in circumference, it soon became impossible to support them with petticoats, even stiffened ones. Just in time, a new invention was made: watch spring steel, both stiff and elastic, and considerably less expensive than whalebone. It was soon put to use in hoop skirts, now known as crinolines, which were affordable even to the middle class. With the crinoline underneath, it now was possible to pile more and more flounces and other decoration onto the skirt without pulling it down.
This development rang in the era of the decoration-loving Second Rococo. During the 50s, the crinoline grew backwards but flattened in front so that forward movement was not additionally hampered. The early 1860s saw the largest extension of the crinoline, with up to maybe 5 yards in circumference at the bottom. Towards 1870 it became smaller again, concentrating all its bulk on the back. This is how the bustle came into being.