Late Gothic
Medieval Fashion
The plural term "Middle Ages" hints at the fact that we are not looking at one era here, but at three distinct periods referred to as Early, High and Late Middle Ages. Historians have not agreed on when the Middle Ages begin or end - does it begin with the decline of Rome in the 3rd century, or with the crowning of Charlemagne in 800?
Let's let it start with Charlemagne and his successors until 1100. After the era of migration, affairs were beginning to settle down a little. For centuries, a number of tribes had wandered all through the continent in search of a new place to settle in. As Europe was not all empty, fights with the natives or other migrating tribes ensued. The emperors and kings of the Carolingian era had therefore gained their power as military commanders; the nobility were their generals and the civilian populace did not count. Period paintings show that clothing was still influenced by classical Roman and Byzantine dress, even though the high culture and technology had vanished. People wore tunicas, toga-like cloaks and laced sandals.The picture portrays emperor Otto III with vassals, 10th century.
Characterised by simple shape, this fashion generally lasted until the High Middle Ages (12th/13th century), the era of crusades and knights, which is often considered being the "real" medieval time. Deep piety, minnesang service and use-of-arms lessons were regarded as the most important male obligations. Therefore sons were either appointed heir, or were sent into a monastery or servitude. That is the reason why the cross and the sword were the then major insignia. Both were worn over civilian clothes as well as over battle gowns.
Civilian clothing consisted of a simple, wide and long gown, was embroidered with simple borders and held with a leather belt (noble ceremonial robes with a golden belt). As underwear served a simple linen shirt, "bruchen" (underpants) and warm hose.
Battle clothes have been in a continuous change throughout the centuries, so we contain ourselves with the description of one form of the high Middle Ages: Over the described underwear the knight wore a quilted jacket (gambaison), an armour-plated doublet (platen), a chainmail shirt and chainmail trousers, and above it all the "coat of arms robe", a large shirt, decorated with the knight's coat of arms (as a sign of recognition for the vassals).
Civilian clothing consisted of a simple, wide and long gown, was embroidered with simple borders and held with a leather belt (noble ceremonial robes with a golden belt). As underwear served a simple linen shirt, "bruchen" (underpants) and warm hose. Battle clothes have been in a continuous change throughout the centuries, so we contain ourselves with the description of one form of the high Middle Ages: Over the described underwear the knight wore a quilted jacket (gambaison), an armour-plated doublet (platen), a chainmail shirt and chainmail trousers, and above it all the "coat of arms robe", a large shirt, decorated with the knight's coat of arms (as a sign of recognition for the vassals).
Astonishingly, female clothing did not differ too much from the male. Women used to wear wide sleeves over underdresses with tight sleeves. Skirts were generously cut and quite long. Women too held their dresses with a belt around the waist. Picture above: Minnesinger and lady from the Manesse manuscript.
Hat fashion of this time is also worth mentioning: Men were wearing the so-called "gugel", a hood with collar and long pointed end. Married women had to cover their heads with a short veil, held by a ring. Talking about colours it must be taken into account that the dyeing methods of those times only produced blue, red and green. Of course also yellow was possible, but yellow was disapproved of, as it was attributed to prostitutes. Weaving techniques not very far developed either, so that only relatively rough material made of linen, wool, flax or hemp was be used. Picture: Szene of a group of Noobles in the 14th century.